I have to get out there and back in the water more often cause it really centers me and Grounds me. I absolutely Love the Ocean and find nothing more relaxing and Healing than being out in the Ocean and Surfing and Feeling the Powers of the Tides, The Currents and Energy that I get whenever I'm out in the water. I've Surfed all My life here in So. Cal and some other parts of the world and find there's nothing more gratifying than challengeing the Powers of the Surf and feeling Gods Strength and a Strong Renewal of FAITH DEPENDING UPON THE pOWER that I feel when I'm out there. It's a real Self Gratifying feeling that I feel No other Sport can come close to It's Spriritual and a very personal experience. It has nothing to do forme about Showing off. I prefer to do it alone. Besides that I'm the UNknown Streaking Surfer of O.B. Pier in that I've done that since about 1976 it was on a DARE in the dead of winter and I've appeared and done it more than once since. In fact at one time South Coast surf shop used to have some Photos that someone had captured of me doing it. Diving Straight off the Pier Catching some nice ones in and riding it through the Pylons where I'd hit Shore a run back up the stairs to the top getting dressed hopping on My Crusier and heading for Home at around Midnight , 1 to 2 am in the Buff in the Dead of Winter when the waves are Big and it was so exhilirating. What a RUSH! I may be 54 now but I can still do it and I'll return again this year to do It Once again so Look for me at the O.B. Pier in Ocean Beach this Winter cause it's Time to make My reapppearance and Ride the Big One in! LOve it! I LOVE YOU APRIL!Surfing in the BUFF!
blessed
I LOVE YOU APRIL!Surfing in the BUFF!
